Belay Specs Blog

This blog has less to do with Belay Specs and more to do with our employee's climbing and outdoor outings.  We'll talk about exciting news about Belay Specs but we'll talk much more about the trips we've taken and the places we've checked out.  We'd like to share some of our experiences in the hope that they inspire you to check the areas out for yourselves. If you read about an area or activity in one of our posts and have questions on beta, route recommendations or anything else, leave a comment and we'll try to fill you in.

Finding good, shady, quiet areas at the City can be tough and sometimes you can get all that you want. We got up and headed to Bath Rock to get on some good routes that receive morning shade, problem was lots of other folks did too. Luckily, we got there early enough to snag Private Idaho (5.9), a beautiful dihedral crack with a funky slot towards the end. I had a lot of fun climbing it and Alana did too although she wished I had gone around the slot instead of through it.

The group of climbers were pretty friendly and routes seemed to free up just as we were ready for them. We hopped on Rollercoaster next, a nice 5.8 sport route that was a better warmup than Private Idaho. Alana led this one too and then we headed over to Colossus (5.10c). Some of the other folks at the cliff wanted to get on Colossus but didn’t feel up to leading it so I put it up on their rope and draws. It’s a neat route with a crux that comes out a hueco near the end of the route. Up until then it’s not bad but exiting the hueco feels very committing and a bit desperate. I agree with the 3 star guide book rating.

We moved down the cliffline to check out Coffee and Cornflakes, a 10a sport route with a first bolt 35 feet up. It was busy with other climbers so I decided to check out Gemini a 12a classic face route. The start is similar to Coffee and Cornflakes, a bit run out on reasonable terrain but things get tough after clipping the second bolt and trying to pull onto the headwall. The climbing is crimpy, thin and lots of fun. I hung at every bolt trying to find holds and sort out the moves. Most of it wasn’t too bad once holds were found except for the crux where I spent 10 minutes and took a long fall trying to sort out the moves. Eventually I got through it using small crimps and high feet. I knew the route wouldn’t go down today so I cleaned it. I’m looking forward to getting on this son a future trip when I’m in better shape and the weather is better.

In the mean time, Coffee and Cornflakes had freed up and it was a lot of fun. The high first bolt doses take some pleasure out of it but the climbing isn’t too challenging. Not wanting to deal with that drawback, Alana ran up it on TR and had a blast, enjoying the movement on big holds.

The sun was coming around the cliff face so we headed up to the north end of the Broadloaves to eat lunch at some shady picnic tables. Mid-day shade can be hard to find so we sat here a while and waited for the shade to swing onto Morning Glory, a three pitch 5.10 on the Anteater formation. When we finally did get to the route, no one was on it so we geared up. The first pitch (10a) involves some tough slabby mantels and a delicate traverse. The second pitch (10d) had some very thin, dicey parts that took me a long time to sort out. Alana didn’t feel up to taking on the pitch so I linked it together with the third pitch (10b) and headed up and around a corner. The bolts and gear posibilities are pretty slim towards the top but the climbing is easy on big holds. Even so, I was very happy when I clipped the chains.

What our users have to say

Belay Specs have allowed me to finally enjoy sport climbing.  As a chiropractor I know the huge anatomical stress of extended extension while belaying.  Belay Specs allow you to belay without putting yourself at risk of injury and lost climbing days.  In my opinion, they are just as important as your belay device. 

Dr. Chris Hanson of NE Community Chiropractic

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